Unpacking the Packaging Problem: Solutions and Strategies
Image by Fashion for Good.
THE PROBLEM
Packaging is ubiquitous across the fashion industry, from the individual garment level to the shipping of products to consumers. Fashion for Good kicked off its work in the packaging space with a focus on polybags, recognising the significant environmental impact of single-use polybags, particularly in terms of plastic pollution and waste generation. Every year, hundreds of billions of plastic polybags are produced globally, accounting for 26% of all plastic produced each year, with 72% ending up in landfills1.
The reliance on single-use plastics and the sheer high volumes of packaging generating mountains of waste contributes to plastic pollution. The recycling rates of single-use plastics are low, estimated to be less than 15%2 due to a lack of infrastructure and limited market demand for recycled plastic. The widespread use of non-biodegradable and non-compostable materials derived from fossil fuels exacerbates the issue of greenhouse gas emissions and the pervasive presence of microplastics.
Furthermore, the complexity of global supply chains and the lack of standardised, recyclable packaging materials hinder efforts to reduce waste. Additionally, consumer demand for convenience and visually appealing packaging often outweigh sustainability concerns. Consequently, there is a pressing need to reduce plastic consumption, strengthen recycling systems, and foster circular economy principles.
Perceiving the multifaceted nature of sustainable packaging, Fashion for Good identified three key levers to address plastic waste:
- Reduce plastic packaging through process innovation
- Close the loop on existing plastics by creating circular polybags and/or accelerating the implementation of reusable packaging
- Decouple from fossil fuels by using bio-based feedstock or chemical recycling of plastics
This is elaborated in the whitepaper titled Polybags in the fashion industry; focused on mapping the lay of the land and identifying key levers to reduce the environmental impact of polybags.
UNPACKING THE PACKAGING PROBLEM: SOLUTIONS AND STRATEGIES
To divert polybags from landfills, three end-of-use scenarios (recyclability, reusability, and compostability) were assessed through our multi-stakeholder pilots and projects. These were initiated to explore sustainable packaging solutions for the fashion industry, aiming to reduce reliance on single-use plastics and minimise environmental impact.
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Recyclability: A closed-loop recycling solution for polybags by incorporating high levels of recycled post-consumer polybag waste is a step towards establishing a circular economy. Our pilot on Circular Polybag Industry-wide Implementation aimed at closing the loop on polybags at the distribution centre, testing the feasibility of collection as well as the capacity to recycle polybags back into polybags with 100% recycled content. The Polybag Collection Scheme; a pilot designed to trial a scalable infrastructure for collecting and processing polybag waste sought to test that the success of polybag recycling relies on a scalable collection system, reducing contamination of polybag waste and collecting a mono-waste stream of polybags.
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Reusability: Reusable packaging models have struggled to gain traction in the fashion industry, while single-use packaging remains the predominant model. The hindrance is caused by its higher cost and potential environmental impact compared to single-use alternatives. The Rise of Reusable Packaging; a report to examine the environmental impact of transitioning from single-use to reusable packaging solutions, highlighted that to overcome these challenges, reducing costs and increasing reuse rates are critical factors. It also identified key variables such as transportation, return rates, and packaging materials that influence the success of reusable packaging initiatives.
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Compostability: Traditional polybags rely on fossil fuels and often lack proper disposal options. This two-pronged problem necessitates the innovation in bio-based, home-compostable alternatives. The Home Compostable Polybag Project aimed at exploring and validating bio-based, home-compostable polybags and assessing their suitability as an alternative to conventional fossil-fuel-based plastic packaging. It tested the functionality and end-of-use claims of the bio-based home-compostable polybags through third-party testing and certifications.
The priority for partners to participate in the pilots and projects is to align with their sustainability goals to reduce their environmental footprint and be prepared for upcoming legislation on packaging waste and single-use plastics. Being a part of multi-stakeholder projects enables brands to share knowledge, collaborate on innovative solutions, and collectively drive industry-wide change in packaging practices.
OBJECTIVES
- To evaluate alternative packaging options: Identify the focus areas for reducing the impact of polybags and assess the different systems and material options.
- To test the feasibility of polybag collection and recycling: Develop a fully circular “bag-to-bag” concept and test a circular solution for polybags using Cadel Deinking’s (now KEYCYCLE) technology.
- To identify the factors influencing reusability: Provide a quantified impact assessment of a reusable system versus single-use packaging, accounting for key variables that influence the environmental impact of each system such as transportation, return rates, and packaging materials.
- To validate home compostability: Assess the functional properties through laboratory and supply chain testing and validate the end-of-use claims of home compostable polybags through certifications and third-party degradation testing.
KEY FINDINGS
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The best fit in terms of the packaging solution for a brand is dependent on three main considerations:
a) the problem a company is trying to solve (e.g. waste generation or end-of-use or input material),
b) the end destination of the polybag whether it reaches the consumer or stays back at the distribution centre or store, and
c) the local infrastructure to favour reusability, recyclability or compostability. -
Reusable packaging systems can reduce carbon emissions by up to 82% in a decentralised system (does not utilise an additional node for packaging) and plastic waste by 87% compared to single-use packaging. However, the success of these systems depends on factors like return rates, transportation distances, packaging material alternatives (with or without recycled content) and system design (centralised vs decentralised). The chances of success of reusable packaging are in business-to-consumer (B2C) rental models and in business-to-business models from distribution centres to retail.
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Home compostable polybags hold significant potential as alternatives to conventional fossil-fuel-based polybags given their natural degradation capabilities. However, further adjustments are needed for applications in the fashion industry to address issues with transparency, durability and perforation. Additionally, there is a lack of existing impact assessment methodologies that provide a comprehensive view of the environmental benefits and potential of these technologies. Multiple iterations of bio-based polybag prototypes were developed and tested, allowing continuous refinement to address the challenges and thus making it practically viable for widespread adoption.
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The design of the packaging system, including closures and labels, and consumer awareness largely influence the recyclability, reusability, and compostability of the polybag. Stickers and adhesive strips can hinder the recyclability and compostability of otherwise sustainable packaging. Even if a product is made from 100% recyclable or compostable materials, the presence of non-recyclable stickers can compromise its environmental impact. To address this issue, innovation is needed in developing sustainable adhesive labels. Additionally, educating consumers about the importance of removing stickers before recycling or composting is crucial.
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It is feasible to develop a ‘truly circular’ polybag by using 100% recycled content (80% post-consumer and 20% post-industrial) that meets industry standards in terms of polybag transparency. Factors such as the creation of a mono-material waste stream and collection at the store level provide high-quality and high-purity polybag waste. Brands either saved or remained cost-neutral by separating polybag waste, reducing waste collection costs by up to 40%. The separated polybag waste maintained high quality and low contamination, ensuring 100% recyclability. The circular polybags were shown to have one-fifth the environmental impact of virgin polybags, according to a fast-tracked LCA.
CALL TO ACTION: NEXT STEPS
- Innovators and brands with successful sustainable packaging pilots should explore opportunities to scale these initiatives. This includes optimising designs, improving processes, and reducing costs to ensure long-term viability and broader adoption.
- Policymakers need to build on the momentum of existing legislation, prioritising the development and implementation of comprehensive measures like banning single-use plastics, mandating minimum recycled content standards, providing incentives for sustainable packaging practices, funding research and development of innovative materials, and enforcing strict Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR).
- Consumers need to be educated on the different types of packaging material and their impact and be compliant with the appropriate disposal methods, be it convenience in returning reusable packaging or access to the correct recycling or compostable bins.
KEY STATS
Brand Stakeholders: Circular Polybag Industry-wide Implementation: adidas, C&A, Kering, Otto Group, PVH Corp.; Polybag Collection Scheme: adidas, Kering, Stella McCartney; The Rise of Reusable Packaging: Otto Group, Zalando; The Home Compostable Polybag Project: Levi Strauss & Co., C&A
Other stakeholders: The Rise of Reusable Packaging: Utrecht University, Sustainable Packaging Coalition
Project Length & Geography: Reports, pilots and projects over 6 six years (2019-2024), with a geographic focus on Europe and the United States. Circular Polybag Industry-wide Implementation: 12 months; Europe; Polybag Collection Scheme: 3 months; London, United Kingdom; The Rise of Reusable Packaging: Part of a multi-year study; Europe; The Home Compostable Polybag Project: 18 months; Europe and the United States of America
Innovators: Circular Polybag Industry-wide Implementation: KEYCYCLE Deinking (formerly Cadel Deinking); Polybag Collection Scheme: First Mile; The Rise of Reusable Packaging: Returnity, RePack (bought out by Oceansix), LimeLoop; The Home Compostable Polybag Project: TIPA, Green Hope
Press Release & Report: Polybags in the Fashion Industry, The Circular Polybag Industry-wide Implementation, Polybag Collection Scheme, The Rise of Reusable Packaging, Home Compostable Polybag Project
CONTACT: Innovations@fashionforgood.com
1Plastics For Change. (n.d.). Can the fashion industry break free from plastic addiction?, link.
2 Fashion for Good. (2021). The Circular Polybag Project: Industry-Wide Implementation for Sustainable Packaging Solutions. Fashion for Good. Retrieved from https://reports.fashionforgood.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/Circular-Polybag.pdf
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