CREDIT: Unsplash, in collaboration with JSB Co.

18 July 2024

TRANSPARENCY OF TEXTILE WASTE ORIGINS

A significant bottleneck in progressing toward scaling recycled textiles is the current lack of transparency regarding the origins of textile feedstock. Tracing textile waste is currently a manual and fragmented process, with data collected not being classified and standardised efficiently for consolidation and exchange. However, increased brand and regulatory pressure demonstrates the need for transparency to preserve the authenticity and origin of feedstock for recycled materials. 

Through the Tracing Textile Waste Project, Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange are partnering to tackle these challenges within the certified supply chain. This project will specifically look to improve transparency beyond the recycler for pre-consumer material inputs. Aligning waste data classifications and fostering system interoperability will be pivotal to this work and ultimately, help to improve data integrity. Reverse Resources, a platform for digitising and connecting textile waste with recyclers, and an alumni of Fashion for Good’s 2018 Innovation Programme will offer strategic knowledge and be a core validation partner.  We anticipate that this partnership with Reverse Resources will enhance efficient waste tracking and supply chain visibility, and promote higher value realisation for all parties involved. 

“We know there are various unlocks which are crucial on the path to scaling textile to textile recycled materials and traceability is one of them. The quality and consistency of data is a challenge across the industry and particularly within traceability. Through this project we can enhance and standardise the quality of data collected and hopefully accelerate the evolution of existing standards and certifications. We are pleased to be partnering with Textile Exchange again and continuing our work together” – Katrin Ley, Managing Director Fashion for Good

LEVERAGING EXISTING STANDARDS

The Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) are the leading benchmarks for textile recycling in the textiles, fashion, and apparel industries. These standards provide a framework for tracking certified input of textile waste between recyclers and downstream actors through a Chain of Custody model. 

Visibility beyond the recycler is limited to the seller of reclaimed material which can be identified via the Reclaimed Material Declaration Form (RMDF). This serves as a template for sellers of reclaimed materials to disclose product details to recyclers. Periodically, this information is consolidated and shared with certification bodies to facilitate the issuance of transaction certificates.

The Tracing Textile Waste Project will build upon the Reclaimed Material Declaration Form (RMDF) to create an open-source data standard which will be validated using selected use cases for pre-consumer reclaimed material. Ultimately, the goal is to provide an industry framework that can be scaled for potential implementation into GRS/RCS chain of custody requirements and for other recycled supply chains.

The development of this template will be supported by extensive consultation with leading standards, brands and system stakeholders. By aligning with established frameworks and soliciting input directly from the field, we will enhance efficiency in information exchange and strengthen the certification and verification processes for recycled materials.

REGULATORY DRIVERS

The Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) is part of a package of measures that are central to achieving the objectives of the 2020 Circular Economy Action Plan. It enters into force in July 2024 and aims to significantly improve the circularity, energy performance and other environmental sustainability aspects of products placed on the EU market.

A key aspect of the ESPR is the establishment of eco-design requirements for products, including increased recycled content. The focus of the European institutions is on increasing recycled material from textile waste and on increasing the traceability and visibility of the recycled content in each product. The introduction of such a minimum requirement for recycled content will increase the demand for recycled material from textile waste. Improving the visibility of recovered material inputs, such as their origin and collection stage, will enable brands to report more effectively on the recycled content used in their products. This will facilitate compliance with ESPR eco-design requirements, the upcoming Digital Product Passport, reporting obligations under the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, and the ecomodulation criteria in the Waste Framework Directive. This underlines the importance of improving the interoperability and data standardisation of the Recovered Materials Declaration Form (RMDF), facilitating accurate data capture and reporting.

Access to suitable feedstock is critical to meet the expected demand for recycled materials. Innovative waste mapping platforms are emerging as valuable tools to connect textile waste producers with potential buyers, making it easier for companies to find and source suitable feedstock. 

“Brands, and even consumers, are increasingly interested in knowing where their recycled products come from, including the sources of the materials being reused. Textile Exchange’s collaboration with Fashion for Good on this project aims to standardise and connect the data between the waste, certification, and traceability systems to achieve traceability of pre-consumer reclaimed materials. We support the work on data standardisation to enable interoperability between systems, enhancing data accuracy and quality, and improving data flow. These efforts are essential for consistent and reliable data collection and traceability.” – Evonne Tan, Senior Director Data & Technology, Textile Exchange

OUTPUT

This two-year initiative will establish a standardised system for classifying and collecting data on textile waste, materialised via a Minimum Viable Product (MVP) of the Reclaimed Material Declaration Form. To support this effort, a Glossary of Terms defining relevant waste-related terminology will be developed.

To measure the effectiveness of the MVP, real-world testing will be conducted using selected use cases, including through the Reverse Resources platform. Alongside this, the project will explore how we can further enhance and improve the transfer of data through the supply chain, exploring opportunities for improved API integration. 

Ultimately, the goal is to provide an industry framework that can be scaled for potential implementation into GRS/RCS chain of custody requirements and for other recycled supply chains, with the potential for broader application across other recycled supply chains.

The project is driven by Fashion for Good and Textile Exchange, with support from Control Union and brand partners including adidas, Target, Bestseller, Norrøna, and Levi Strauss & Co. Additionally, the project is bolstered by partnerships with ecosystem stakeholders, comprising Reverse Resources, Recover, and Usha Yarns. 

This initiative represents a crucial step towards a more transparent and sustainable fashion industry. By working together, we can unlock the power of textile waste and create a closed-loop system for a more responsible future.

“Partnering on the Tracing Textile Waste Project allows us to deepen our commitment to transparency and accountability in the supply chain. By piloting the traceability of textile waste in the adidas supply chain, we can ensure the integrity of recycled materials and drive meaningful change across the industry. We are excited to collaborate with Fashion for Good, Textile Exchange, and our fellow brand partners to lead the way towards a more sustainable future.”  – Viviane Gut, Senior Director Sustainability, adidas